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I donÔøΩÔøΩÔøΩt see how you guys say itÔøΩÔøΩÔøΩs a bolt on what itÔøΩÔøΩÔøΩs definitely not. After reading more reviews on other pages IÔøΩÔøΩÔøΩm not the only one and mostly everyone that have ordered these had the same issue. Please learn from my mistakes and donÔøΩÔøΩÔøΩt waist money on this crap. This is also the last time I will order and of your products. Read Less
The screw placement at the back of the door may not end up within the door cavity, one did one didn't. The third screw on the rear flare requires a larger packer, I joined 2 together. There are three sizes of screws that a...Read More
ren't mentioned in the instructions, the shortest are obvious, and has one per door fender under the handle, intended to deal with the door cavity issue above, the longest, and it's only 3/16 of an inch longer so hard to tell by eye, fits in one location on each of the rear fenders at the middle screw location, and it should be another 1/8" longer, and all the rest are the same length. The long screw needs a pair of packers to be placed together to support the plastic.
The rubber strip is a real pain to get on, as it doesn't want to stay on, cleaned with even when the plastic was cleaned with methylated spirits and used pressure.
On the Front I used wide mouth vice grips to put a 5mm fold on all cut edges to give some rigidity, this worked well. On the rear I wasn't happy with merely cutting the rear guards and filling so I welded the steel. I cut the inside steel 6mm - 1/4" lower/less than the outer skin so I could bend it to meet the outer skin to weld together. The bottom back section required a 12mm - 1/2" patch approx 140mm - 5 1/2" packer to bridge a gap between the inner and outer skins. Thin panel steel is a nuisance to mig weld but still doable if you pulse the trigger to minimise heat. Not helped using flux cored wire as I did but you never see it and it is hidden by the fenders.
The rear door sill screws are too small and strip out to easily, even using torque settings on the drill doesn't help as it needs hi torque to drill and unless you have the reaction skills of a drag strip driver you may not ease off the trigger before it has stripped.
My kit was an earlier version so it didn't come with stainless washers and I couldn't get a good washer to fit, compromising between available ID / OD combination to get one that was close to correct ID but giving me an almost correct OD for good bearing on the plastic.
All cut / welded edges were primed, and then I used a paintable tar based underseal to coat all steel edges under the fenders, my concern is that dirt would get in there and not be easily cleaned.
I used the same tar based undercoat to hold the plastic packers onto the steel when positioning the fender and screws, this worked well.
I'm a bit worried about the screws shaking loose, but only time will tell if this is well founded or not.
My Cherokee has small side indicators on the front guards that I had to reposition to a higher position to allow the fender to sit as high as it could.
All in all it took me about 20 hours to fit, but they look awesome and I'm genuinely happy. I wouldn't recommend paying a shop to install them on cost alone, and unless you have some mechanical skill I think you will struggle to get a robust installation.
That's my 5 cents worth. Read Less